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2/2: #ElizabethHawes' passion for getting #Americans to reject accepted standards of dress & her political activism brought her to attention of @FBI in #Communist witchunt of 1950s. Fascinating woman. #StylishSunday
The #Enlightenment & both #FrenchRevolution & #IndustrialRevolution led to what psychologist #JCFlügel termed the 'Great Masculine Renunciation' whereby men gave up their colours & dressed more soberly. #StylishSunday
1920s/30s #ArtDeco scarves (clean lines, blocks of colour) are typified in the paintings of #TamaraDeLempicka. Film stars like #GretaGarbo wore them on head as turbans. #StylishSunday #FashionAccessories
#WilliamRandolphHearst (owner of @harpersbazaarus), did not approve of pix & neither did the south of #USA. Advertisers pulled ads, readers stopped their subs & #RichardAvedon wasn't allowed to photograph #DonyaleLuna again.😱😢#StylishSunday
#BermudaShorts history lesson: British servicemen abroad cut the bottom half of their uniforms off to cope with the heat in #WW1. Then #London tailors picked up on it which somehow became these in the 1950s & 60s. #StylishSunday
The British Medical Journal wrote that the term 'killing' (Victorian slang for a gorj woman) was apt coz any woman wearing these dresses to a ball "carries in her skirts poison enough to slay the whole of the admirers she may meet within half a dozen ballrooms”. #StylishSunday
Women also died by fire when their clothes were set alight. #Tulle & #tarlatan (light heavily starched cotton) were very flammable (then) and the #crinoline created a funnel effect if it caught fire, a common occurrence. Over 3,000 women died in 1860 alone.😱😢 #StylishSunday
Our penultimate (2nd last to u lot😂) tweet for #StylishSunday is to pose this question: where *are* all the lesbians in fashion? Indeed, where are all the lesbians in the #LGBT+ history narrative? A cynic might say 'they've been written out of it". Do u agree? Let us know.
#RadclyffeHall in 'The Well Of Loneliness' gives us a blueprint for lesbian 'mannishness'. The main character uses clothing to express her lesbian identity & Hall writes beautiful descriptions on the main character's folded shirts, cuff links & bespoke male suits. #StylishSunday
#AnneLister was a 'mannish' lesbian. Her portraits show her in black, with a white shirt & cravat. She modelled herself on #LordByron, outrageous (#Scottish😉) poetry star & #BeauBrummell. Look at our #FashionFriday tweets in lockdown on the #Dandies for more info. #StylishSunday
Some poor guy in #Utrecht in 1700 was arrested & made homeless for wearing the dress of a shepherdess. And in 1727 the trial of the infamous 'Mother Clap's Molly House' #London began. The #MollyHouse was where (mostly) homosexual men socialised in early 18th c. #StylishSunday
#Castiglione wrote "I do not want [men] to appear...feminine as so many try to do, when they not only curl their hair and pluck their eyebrows but also preen themselves like the most wanton and dissolute creatures imaginable". Party pooper.😂 #StylishSunday